In 2008, David Simpson, the guy who shoots these
photos, became part of the elaborate play that makes the Grand Marais
run both fascinating and mysterious to outsiders. Having
followed the run for several stops during the past few years, I had a
general idea what to expect. After the Mardi Gras are allowed on
someone's property, they form a circle, sing their song, and then a few
are selected to receive a whipping. The ritual lashing goes back to
ancient times, undertaken on the Grand Marais run in exchange for
contributions from homeowners. In representing themselves as humble
beggars, the co-captains dress in burlap sacks and dab black on their
faces. Apparently too poor to wear masks, the Mardi Gras have dabs of
paint on their faces.
When I arrived at the first stop in 2008,
folklorist Barry Ancelet, who has been a member of the Grand Marais run
for years, greeted me and, in the process, brushed his face against
mine, a gesture that seemed accidental but left me wondering. At
the next stop, as I was snapping photos, Capitaine Thomas Deshotel
suddenly pointed his finger at me and in an angry voice accused me
attempting to pretend to be a Grand Marais Mardi Gras. The
evidence: my cheek was smeared with a dab of paint that Barry
Ancelet had managed to transfer to my skin when he brushed against me.
So I was guilty of being an imposter. It wasn't fair, but neither
are the charges of failure to wear hats or other trumped up infractions
that serve as the grounds for the punishments inflicted on the Grand
Marais Mardi Gras. I was innocent, but I would have to suffer the
penalty nonetheless.
I lay flat on the ground and prepared to endure my
fate. Barry Ancelet, the real culprit who had set me up, then
joined me, and, in a gesture of brotherhood that is part of the drama
enacted at each stop, crawled on top of me to shield me from the whip.
Actually, I was whipped a few times, but, to be honest, the co-capitaines
held back and did not deliver their lashing with anything like the force
used on the Mardi Gras. After I had accepted my punishment and
acknowledged the authority of the capitaine, my face was smeared with
black paint, and I then had the honor of being a part of the Grand
Marais Mardi Gras, following along for several stops to take some more
photos. I still don't understand the intricacies of the Grand
Marais Mardi Gras, but I feel honored to have been included.
The Grand Marais Mardi Gras on the road, led by Capitaine Thomas
Deshotel, who, in the
last photo in the row, is shown pointing his finger at the photographer,
accusing
him of impersonating a Mardi Gras.
David Simpson, the photographer, suffers the consequences. Barry Ancelet,
the Mardi Gras
who brushed against Simpson's face to deposit the evidence (a bit of
paint) used to find
Simpson guilty of being an imposter, joined him on the ground. In one
photo, Ancelet is
shielding Simpson from the whip, an act of solidarity that the Mardi
Gras perform frequently
during the run. The photos were taken by one of the co-capitaines.
The remaining photos, including one chicken-chasing photo. were taken at
a
couple of other stops. In the last photo, a Mardi Gras wears a coat hand
lettered
with "Soldat de Grand Marais."
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